Chilli
Capsicum annuum
India is the world's largest producer and exporter of chilli, and its price swings hard with export demand and dried-stock carry-over. The crop is transplanted from a raised nursery, never sown direct — and the whole season turns on holding off the thrips-and-mite leaf-curl complex growers call "murda".
- Crop type
- Spice (also sold as fresh vegetable)
- Season
- Kharif (main); summer where irrigated
- Suitable states
- 10 major states
- Growing duration
- 150–180 days (first to last picking)
- Water requirement
- Moderate (drip preferred; sensitive to waterlogging)
- Temperature
- 20–30°C
- Soil type
- Well-drained loam to sandy loam
- Difficulty level
- Moderate–hard
- Expected yield
- 15–25 q/ha dry (80–120 q/ha green)
- Key risk
- Leaf curl "murda" complex (thrips + mites)
Overview
Chilli (Capsicum annuum) is grown across roughly 0.7–0.8 million hectares in India, which is both the world's largest producer and its largest exporter. Andhra Pradesh and Telangana lead by a wide margin — the Guntur market is Asia's largest for dry chilli — with Karnataka, Madhya Pradesh and the north-east making up much of the rest.
It is a nursery-raised, transplanted crop, not sown direct like the cereals on this site, and it is grown for two quite different markets: green chilli sold fresh, and red chilli dried and sold on colour and pungency. Colour value (measured as ASTA units, and prized in the oleoresin and export trade) can matter as much as raw heat — which is why a mild but intensely red variety like Byadgi commands a premium a hotter but duller chilli does not.
The crop's defining risk is the leaf-curl complex farmers call "murda" or "bokka" — a combination of sap-sucking thrips and mites, some of them virus vectors, that curls and cups the leaves and can stall a young crop entirely. Managing that vector complex from early growth matters more to the final yield than almost anything else. This page follows the crop in the order you will meet it — nursery, land, transplanting, nutrition, water, protection, harvest, sale.
Crop timeline, sowing to harvest
A quick visual map of the season — jump to any section below for the detail behind each stage.
- Day 0
Nursery sowing
Seed raised in a protected raised nursery bed or protrays, never sown direct into the field — the single detail growers new to chilli most often skip.
- Day 35–45
Transplanting
Hardened seedlings with 4–5 true leaves moved into the main field in the cool of late afternoon; chilli holds in the nursery longer than tomato before it is ready.
- Day 45–70
Establishment and vegetative growth
The crop builds its frame; the thrips and mite watch that decides the whole season begins as soon as new growth appears.
- Day 70–90
Flowering and fruit set
The most sensitive stage for both water and the leaf-curl (murda) complex — sap-sucking thrips and mites here do far more damage through leaf curl than through feeding alone.
- Day 90–110
Green chilli picking begins
Green pods are picked for the fresh market; a crop sold entirely green is picked over several rounds and finishes earlier than a dry-chilli crop.
- Day 120–180
Red-ripe picking for dry chilli
For dry chilli, pods are left to turn fully red on the plant and picked in rounds, then dried — the first-to-last picking span runs 150–180 days.
Suitable states
States where this crop is grown at scale, highlighted below. Your local Krishi Vigyan Kendra is still the final word for your specific block.
- Jammu and Kashmir
- Himachal Pradesh
- Punjab
- Uttarakhand
- Haryana
- Delhi
- Uttar Pradesh
- Rajasthan
- Bihar
- Jharkhand
- West Bengal
- Sikkim
- Assam
- Arunachal Pradesh
- Meghalaya
- Nagaland
- Manipur
- Mizoram
- Tripura
- Gujarat
- Madhya Pradesh
- Chhattisgarh
- Maharashtra
- Odisha
- Goa
- Telangana
- Andhra Pradesh
- Karnataka
- Kerala
- Tamil Nadu
- Puducherry
- Ladakh
- Chandigarh
Grown here
Climate requirements
Chilli sits in an awkward middle — a hot, dry spell flares the thrips-and-mite leaf-curl complex, while a warm, wet, humid spell flares anthracnose fruit rot. There is no single weather that is "safe", which is why steady monitoring beats waiting for one particular threat.
Ideal temperature
20–30°C suits growth and fruit set; set drops off above 35°C and in cold below about 15°C, and a hot, dry spell also flares the thrips and mite complex that drives leaf curl
Rainfall
The kharif crop takes much of its water from the monsoon but still needs supplemental irrigation in dry spells; heavy, continuous rain at flowering causes flower drop and worsens fruit rot
Humidity
Moderate humidity suits the crop; prolonged high humidity with leaf wetness is the main driver of anthracnose fruit rot and die-back, while a hot dry spell instead favours thrips and mites
Sunlight
Full sun through fruiting; chilli needs strong light to colour red properly for the dry-chilli trade, and a shaded or overcast spell at ripening dulls the colour that sets the price
Soil requirements
A raised bed or ridge-and-furrow layout is worth building on any soil short of excellent drainage — the most common single cause of a chilli crop collapsing in patches after a heavy shower is standing water the field could not shed fast enough.
Suitable soil
Well-drained loam to sandy loam with good organic matter; black cotton soils grow excellent chilli (especially the Guntur belt) provided drainage is genuinely good, since the crop is highly sensitive to waterlogging
pH range
6.0–7.0
Drainage
Very good — even brief waterlogging at any stage triggers wilt, root rot and heavy flower drop, and chilli recovers from a waterlogged spell more slowly than most vegetables
Organic matter
High; chilli fruits over a long picking season and depends on sustained nutrient release from well-rotted FYM or compost, not the fertilizer schedule alone
Land preparation
Same four steps whichever region you are in — only the timing shifts with the sowing window.
- 1
Nursery bed preparation
Raise a well-drained nursery bed about 15 cm high, or use protrays with a sterile medium; solarising the nursery soil or drenching it against damping-off before sowing is what keeps the seedbed from collapsing in a crowded, over-watered nursery.
- 2
Main-field cleaning and ploughing
Remove the previous crop's residue and give two to three ploughings to a fine tilth, incorporating weeds so the field starts clean ahead of transplanting.
- 3
FYM incorporation
Work 20–25 tonnes/ha of well-rotted farmyard manure or compost into the final ploughing to support the crop through its long, heavy-feeding picking season.
- 4
Ridge or raised-bed formation
Form ridges and furrows or raised beds rather than a flat seedbed — this protects the waterlogging-sensitive roots through the season and is the single most effective defence against the standing water chilli genuinely cannot tolerate.
Seed information
How the main varieties compare, so you can pick by duration, yield, disease pressure or what you are growing for.
| Variety | Duration | Yield | Disease resistance | Best state | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Byadgi (Dabbi / Kaddi) The famous low-pungency, deep-red Karnataka chilli grown for its exceptional colour value, prized by the oleoresin and export trade far more than for heat. | 160–180 days | Medium (5–8 q/ha dry, but premium priced) | Susceptible to thrips-driven leaf curl; needs careful vector management | Karnataka (Byadgi, Dharwad) | High-colour dry chilli, oleoresin and export |
Guntur Sannam (LCA-334) The mainstay hot, medium-pungency dry chilli of the Guntur belt and the reference grade for much of India's dry-chilli trade. | 160–180 days | High (20–25 q/ha dry) | Moderate; leaf-curl management still essential | Andhra Pradesh, Telangana | Mainstream hot dry chilli, domestic and export |
Teja (S-17) A very high-pungency hybrid grown widely for the oleoresin and export market where high capsaicin heat is the value, not colour. | 160–180 days | High (20–25 q/ha dry) | Moderate | Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Madhya Pradesh | High-pungency oleoresin and export |
Pusa Jwala (open-pollinated) A widely adapted open-pollinated variety for green and dry use whose seed can be saved, popular with smaller growers across northern India. | 140–160 days | Medium (green 80–100 q/ha) | No specific resistance bred in | North India, home and small plots | Seed-saving, green and dry, small plots |
Kashi Anmol / Arka Lohit Public-sector released varieties (IIVR and IIHR respectively) chosen for wide adaptability and reliable green-chilli yield on commercial and smallholder fields alike. | 150–170 days | Medium–High | Moderate, variety-dependent | Multiple states | Green chilli, general cultivation |
Private hybrids (green market) Numerous private-company F1 hybrids bred for high green-chilli yield, fruit uniformity and firmness for distant markets — buy fresh seed each season as saved hybrid seed does not breed true. | 150–170 days | High (green 120 q/ha+) | Varies by hybrid; check the seed company's leaf-curl and wilt package | Commercial belts nationwide | High-yield green chilli, staked/drip commercial |
- Seed rate
- 1.5–2 kg/ha of seed raised in a nursery for open-pollinated types (less for a costly hybrid, often 200–400 g/ha) — enough seedlings for roughly 40,000–55,000 plants per hectare at typical spacing.
- Certified seed
- For a hybrid, buy fresh seed each season from a licensed dealer — saved hybrid seed does not breed true. An open-pollinated variety like Pusa Jwala can be seed-saved if kept isolated from other chilli varieties during flowering. Prefer a variety matched to your market: colour value for Byadgi-type buyers, pungency for the oleoresin trade.
- Spacing
- 60 × 45 cm to 75 × 60 cm depending on variety vigour and whether the crop is staked
- Seed treatment
- Treat nursery seed with a Trichoderma viride or carbendazim + thiram seed dressing against damping-off, then raise the nursery under insect-proof net where possible to keep seedlings free of thrips and the viruses they carry before transplanting.
Sowing guide
Raising the nursery under an insect-proof net and hardening the seedlings for 4–5 days before transplanting are the two nursery-stage steps that pay back most — a hardened, thrips-free seedling establishes faster and starts the season without the leaf-curl infection that otherwise arrives before the crop is even in the field.
- Best time
- Nursery sowing in June–July for the main kharif crop (transplanting July–August), with a summer crop sown under irrigation where water allows; transplanting follows 35–45 days after nursery sowing, once seedlings have 4–5 true leaves
- Row spacing
- 60–75 cm
- Plant spacing
- 45–60 cm
- Sowing depth
- Nursery: about 1 cm; transplant seedlings slightly deeper than they stood in the nursery to encourage rooting along the buried stem
- Method
- Raise seedlings in a raised nursery bed or protrays, harden them, then transplant into ridges or raised beds in the cool of late afternoon to reduce transplant shock
Fertilizer schedule
A split dose beats one large dose applied at sowing — nitrogen especially is lost to the air and to leaching if it all goes in on day one.
- 1
Basal dose
At transplanting
Full phosphorus and potash plus about a quarter to a third of the nitrogen worked into the bed — a common recommendation is around 120:60:60 kg/ha N:P₂O₅:K₂O for an irrigated crop, adjusted to the soil test.
- 2
First top dressing
30 days after transplanting
About a third of the nitrogen as the crop enters active vegetative growth — starting nitrogen too heavily too early pushes leafy growth at the expense of flowering.
- 3
Second top dressing / fertigation
55–60 days after transplanting and through picking
The remaining nitrogen and potash, split across the flowering and picking season; potash in particular supports fruit development and red colour in a dry-chilli crop.
- 4
Micronutrients
As foliar sprays during flowering and fruiting
Foliar sprays of magnesium, zinc or boron where a deficiency shows or a soil test warns of one — chilli is fairly responsive to these on light and heavily cropped soils.
Irrigation schedule
1. Establishment
First 2 weeks after transplanting
Light, frequent irrigation settles the transplant without waterlogging its sensitive roots.
2. Flowering and fruit set
45–90 days after transplanting
The most sensitive stage — both drought stress and waterlogging here directly cause flower and young-fruit drop.
3. Fruiting and picking
90 days onward
Steady, even soil moisture through the picking season; for a dry-chilli crop, irrigation is eased off as the final red pods mature so they dry down cleanly.
Critical stages
- Flowering and fruit set — drought or waterlogging here directly drops flowers and young fruit
- Fruit development — consistent moisture prevents flower drop and supports red colour
Water-saving tips
- Drip irrigation gives even soil moisture, cuts water use sharply against flood irrigation, and keeps the root zone out of the waterlogged state chilli cannot tolerate — increasingly standard on commercial chilli
- Mulching under a drip crop conserves moisture, suppresses weeds and keeps ripening pods off wet soil where they would rot
- For dry chilli, taper irrigation as the last red pods mature so they dry on the plant rather than staying soft and prone to fruit rot
Weed management
Common weeds
Organic control
- Plastic or straw mulch under a drip crop suppresses weeds almost completely and keeps pods off wet soil
- One or two hand weedings or light inter-row hoeings before the canopy closes cover the critical early period
Chemical control
- Pre-transplant: pendimethalin worked into the bed ahead of transplanting controls the early weed flush
- Registered post-transplant options for chilli are limited, so most fields rely on mulch and hand-weeding through the season
Nutrient deficiency identification
What a shortage of each nutrient actually looks like on the plant, so you can tell a deficiency apart from a disease before you spray the wrong thing.
Nitrogen
Visible symptom
Uniform pale yellowing of older leaves first and spindly, slow growth with fewer flowers than expected.
Phosphorus
Visible symptom
Dull, dark purplish-green leaves and stunted growth, most visible in young transplants during cool weather before roots establish.
Potassium
Visible symptom
Yellowing and scorching along the margins of older leaves, with poor fruit filling and weaker red colour in a dry-chilli crop.
Magnesium
Visible symptom
Interveinal yellowing of older leaves while the veins stay green, common on light, sandy and intensively cropped soils.
Calcium
Visible symptom
A sunken, leathery patch near the blossom end of the fruit (blossom-end rot) and death of growing tips — a sign of uneven calcium uptake from inconsistent watering rather than a disease.
Diseases to watch for
Symptoms, likely cause and what actually treats it — not just a spray name.
Anthracnose / fruit rot and die-back
- Symptoms
- Sunken, circular dark spots with concentric rings on ripening pods, rotting the fruit; twigs and branches also die back from the tip in a severe attack, and infected red pods lose all market value.
- Cause
- The fungus Colletotrichum, favoured by warm, humid weather and leaf-and-fruit wetness, and carried on infected seed and crop residue.
- Treatment
- Spray a recommended fungicide (mancozeb, chlorothalonil, or a suitable combination) at first appearance and repeat through a humid spell; remove and destroy rotted pods to cut the source of spores.
- Prevention
- Use clean, treated seed of a tolerant variety, avoid overhead irrigation that wets the fruit, space the crop for airflow, and do not leave infected residue in the field.
Leaf curl complex ("murda" / "bokka")
- Symptoms
- Upward or downward curling, cupping and crinkling of leaves, shortened internodes and a stunted, bushy plant that sets few or no pods — the single most damaging problem in Indian chilli.
- Cause
- A complex, not one disease: sap-sucking thrips and mites cause direct curling, and thrips also transmit viruses that curl the leaf — which is why control is aimed at the insect-and-mite vectors, not a "cure" for the leaf.
- Treatment
- There is no cure for the viral component; manage the vectors (see Pests below) from early growth and remove severely affected plants that will not recover.
- Prevention
- Raise nursery seedlings under insect-proof net, transplant thrips-free seedlings, monitor with blue and yellow sticky traps, and rotate insecticide groups so thrips and mites do not build resistance.
Bacterial leaf spot
- Symptoms
- Small, water-soaked spots on leaves that turn dark brown with a yellow halo, later drying and dropping out to leave a "shot-hole" look; also spots on fruit that downgrade it.
- Cause
- The bacterium Xanthomonas, spread by rain splash and overhead irrigation and carried on infected seed, worse in warm, wet weather.
- Treatment
- Copper-based sprays (copper oxychloride, sometimes with streptocycline where permitted) slow spread; there is no strong curative, so early action matters.
- Prevention
- Use clean, treated seed, avoid working in the crop when wet, prefer drip over overhead irrigation, and rotate away from chilli on fields with a history.
Damping-off (nursery)
- Symptoms
- Nursery seedlings rot at the soil line and topple over in patches, either failing to emerge (pre-emergence) or collapsing soon after (post-emergence).
- Cause
- Soil-borne fungi (Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium), favoured by a crowded, over-watered nursery bed with poor drainage.
- Treatment
- Drench the nursery bed with a recommended fungicide at the first sign, reduce watering and improve drainage immediately.
- Prevention
- Raise the nursery on a well-drained raised bed or protrays, solarise or treat the nursery soil, treat the seed, avoid over-watering, and never sow the nursery too thickly.
Pests to watch for
What to look for before the damage is visible, and organic options before you reach for a chemical.
Thrips
- Identification
- Tiny, slender pale-yellow to brown insects that rasp the leaf surface; damage shows as upward leaf curling, a silvery or bronzed underside, and cupped, distorted growth.
- Damage
- The single most important pest of chilli — it curls the leaves directly and transmits the viruses behind the "murda" leaf-curl complex, so controlling thrips is the main defence against the crop's biggest problem.
- Organic control
- Blue sticky traps for monitoring and mass-trapping, an insect-proof nursery net to start clean, and neem-based sprays on early populations; conserve natural predators by avoiding blanket early spraying.
- Chemical control
- Need-based sprays of a recommended insecticide, rotating between chemical groups so thrips do not build resistance — resistance from repeated use of one group is a real and growing problem in chilli belts.
Yellow / broad mite
- Identification
- Too small to see clearly with the eye; suspect it where the youngest leaves curl downward, narrow and turn a shiny, leathery bronze — a pattern distinct from the upward curl thrips cause.
- Damage
- Downward leaf curling and stunted growing tips that stall the crop; mites and thrips together are the "murda" complex, and a field is often carrying both at once.
- Organic control
- Sulphur-based sprays and neem, plus conserving predatory mites; act early, since a heavy mite curl is hard to reverse once the growing point is damaged.
- Chemical control
- A recommended acaricide (miticide) specifically — many insecticides used for thrips do not control mites, so the two often need separate products, which is why correctly telling them apart matters.
Fruit borer
- Identification
- Caterpillars (Helicoverpa, Spodoptera) boring into developing pods, often with a clean round hole and frass at the entrance; a bored pod is unmarketable.
- Damage
- Direct pod damage, especially costly on a dry-chilli crop where a bored red pod is downgraded or rejected, and sprays cannot reach the larva once it is inside.
- Organic control
- Pheromone traps for monitoring and mass-trapping, bird perches, and a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or NPV spray on young larvae before they bore in.
- Chemical control
- A need-based spray of emamectin benzoate or chlorantraniliprole timed to egg-laying and early larvae, guided by trap catches rather than the calendar.
Aphids and whitefly
- Identification
- Aphids cluster on tender shoots and leaf undersides; whitefly fly up in a cloud when disturbed. Both leave a sticky honeydew that blackens with sooty mould.
- Damage
- Direct sap loss is secondary to their role in spreading viruses that add to the leaf-curl complex; sooty mould on honeydew also fouls the pods.
- Organic control
- Yellow sticky traps, neem sprays, and conserving natural enemies such as ladybird beetles keep early populations down.
- Chemical control
- A systemic insecticide where numbers build, folded into the same rotation used for thrips so no one chemical group is over-used.
Common mistakes to avoid
The mistakes that cost growers the most, ranked by how often they show up in the field — not in the order you might expect.
- 1
Sowing chilli seed direct into the field instead of raising a nursery
Why it hurts
Direct-sown chilli germinates unevenly, is far harder to protect from damping-off and early thrips, and gives a weak, gappy stand — the transplanted nursery crop outperforms it decisively.
- 2
Raising the nursery without insect-proof netting
Why it hurts
Seedlings pick up thrips and the leaf-curl viruses they carry before they are even transplanted, so the "murda" problem starts before the crop reaches the field.
- 3
Waiting for visible leaf curl before acting on thrips and mites
Why it hurts
By the time leaves are visibly curled the vector population and virus spread are well advanced; the return on control is highest when it starts at early vegetative growth.
- 4
Confusing thrips curl (upward) with mite curl (downward) and spraying the wrong product
Why it hurts
Most thrips insecticides do not kill mites and vice versa, so treating one when the other is present wastes a spray and lets the untreated pest keep curling the crop.
- 5
Using the same insecticide group repeatedly
Why it hurts
Thrips in Indian chilli belts have built serious resistance to over-used groups; rotating chemistry is now essential or sprays simply stop working.
- 6
Overhead / flood irrigation that wets the fruit and waterlogs the roots
Why it hurts
Wet fruit and humid canopy drive anthracnose fruit rot and bacterial leaf spot, and waterlogged roots trigger wilt and flower drop — drip on ridges avoids both.
- 7
Not tapering irrigation as red pods mature on a dry-chilli crop
Why it hurts
Pods that stay soft and moist near harvest rot on the plant instead of drying cleanly, cutting both yield and the colour grade that sets the price.
- 8
Drying red chilli on bare ground in thin layers exposed to dew and rain
Why it hurts
Uneven drying and re-wetting cause mould and a dull, blotchy colour that downgrades the whole lot; a clean drying floor or platform protects the ASTA colour value.
- 9
Choosing a variety by yield alone, ignoring the target market
Why it hurts
A high-yield hot chilli sold into a colour-premium (Byadgi-type) market, or a mild colour chilli sold where heat is paid for, both leave money on the table — variety must match the buyer.
- 10
Growing chilli after tomato, brinjal or potato on the same field repeatedly
Why it hurts
These solanaceous crops share bacterial wilt and root-knot nematode, which build up in the soil and hit the chilli crop that a two-season rotation would have spared.
Harvesting
Green chilli is picked from about 90–110 days after transplanting, in rounds every 7–10 days, once pods reach full size but are still green. For dry chilli, pods are left to turn fully red on the plant and picked in several rounds from around 120 days, with the first-to-last picking span running 150–180 days.
Signs it is ready
- Green chilli: pods have reached full size, are firm and glossy, but still green
- Dry chilli: pods have turned fully, deeply red on the plant
- Pods snap or separate cleanly from the stalk when picked
- For dry chilli, a fully-coloured pod that is beginning to soften slightly is at its colour peak
Tools
- Hand-picking, universal for chilli in India — pods are picked selectively over several rounds
- Shallow baskets or crates that do not crush the lower pods
- A clean drying floor, platform or tarpaulin for red chilli, kept off bare, dew-damp ground
Expected yield
15–25 q/ha of dry chilli for a well-managed irrigated crop (higher for green-chilli-only sale at 80–120 q/ha fresh); Byadgi-type colour varieties yield less by weight but sell at a premium.
Post-harvest & storage
Storage
Dry red chilli down to about 10% moisture before storage — the single most important step against mould and colour loss. Store the dried pods in a cool, dry place in clean bags, keeping them off damp floors and away from re-wetting, and grade by colour and pungency for the buyer.
Packaging
Dry chilli is bagged for market and increasingly graded on colour value; premium colour and oleoresin lots are handled more carefully to protect the ASTA colour that sets their price. Green chilli goes in ventilated crates or bags for quick sale.
Transportation
Move green chilli to market quickly, since it is perishable; transport dry chilli protected from rain and re-wetting, which undoes careful drying and invites mould in transit.
Shelf life
Well-dried red chilli stored cool and dry keeps for several months to a year, with colour fade rather than spoilage usually the limiting factor; cold storage extends it further for held stock. Green chilli lasts only about a week fresh, or 2–3 weeks in cold storage.
Market prices
Today's mandi price near you, pulled live from the government's own Agmarknet data.
Live daily mandi prices from the government Agmarknet dataset.
Synced from data.gov.in (Agmarknet). Rates are ₹ per quintal.
Weather
Current conditions and a 5-day outlook for your selected location, with one line of stage-aware advice.
Pick your state for current conditions and a 5-day outlook.
Live data from Open-Meteo
Profit calculator
Your own cost sheet, expected yield and selling price — not ours.
Where the money goes
Share of the total cost per acre, using the calculator’s own default cost sheet below — adjust the numbers there to match your field and this picture will no longer apply to you exactly, but the ranking rarely changes.
- Labour33% (₹20,000)
- Land rent16% (₹10,000)
- Pesticide & weedicide15% (₹9,000)
- Fertiliser13% (₹8,000)
- Irrigation8% (₹5,000)
- Seed7% (₹4,000)
- Machinery5% (₹3,000)
- Interest4% (₹2,500)
Official downloads
Government and ICAR documents only — everything below is hosted on an official server.
ICAR-IISR — Indian Institute of Spices Research, Kozhikode
Package of practices, chilli and spice variety information and advisories from the ICAR institute mandated for spices research.
Spices Board India
Export grades, quality standards (including colour value) and market information for chilli and other spices from the Government of India Spices Board.
Soil Health Card portal
Get a free, crop-wise fertilizer and micronutrient recommendation before finalising the schedule above.
mKisan — SMS advisory portal
Register for free SMS advisories timed to your crop stage and district.
Frequently asked questions
Why is chilli transplanted from a nursery instead of sown direct?
A nursery gives even, protected germination, lets you cull weak seedlings, and — critically — lets you raise the crop under an insect-proof net so it starts free of the thrips and viruses behind leaf curl. Direct-sown chilli germinates unevenly, is far harder to protect, and gives a weak, gappy stand. Seedlings are transplanted 35–45 days after nursery sowing, once they have 4–5 true leaves.
What is the best time to sow and transplant chilli?
For the main kharif crop, sow the nursery in June–July and transplant in July–August; a summer crop can be raised under irrigation where water allows. Transplanting follows about 35–45 days after nursery sowing.
How much seed do I need, and how many plants does it give?
About 1.5–2 kg/ha of open-pollinated seed raised in a nursery (much less, often 200–400 g/ha, for a costly hybrid) gives enough seedlings for roughly 40,000–55,000 plants per hectare at typical spacing.
What is "murda" or leaf curl, and how do I manage it?
Murda (also called bokka) is the leaf-curl complex — a combination of sap-sucking thrips and mites, some of them virus vectors, that curls and cups the leaves and can stall a young crop entirely. It is the single most damaging problem in Indian chilli. There is no cure for the viral part, so management is aimed at the vectors: raise the nursery under net, transplant clean seedlings, monitor with sticky traps, act early, and rotate insecticide groups.
How do I tell thrips damage from mite damage?
Thrips typically curl leaves upward with a silvery or bronzed underside; mites curl the youngest leaves downward, narrowing them into a shiny, leathery, bronzed look. The distinction matters because most thrips insecticides do not control mites and vice versa — treating the wrong one wastes a spray while the real pest keeps curling the crop.
Does chilli have an MSP, and why is the price so volatile?
No — chilli has no Minimum Support Price. India is the world's largest producer and exporter, so the price swings with export demand, the carry-over of dried stock held in cold stores, and the colour and pungency grade — a high-colour Byadgi-type chilli fetches an oleoresin and export premium a hotter but duller chilli does not. The live mandi price is the most useful real-time signal for deciding when to sell.
What is the difference between green chilli and dry chilli farming?
The agronomy is the same crop, but a green-chilli grower picks pods full-size but still green over several rounds and finishes earlier, while a dry-chilli grower leaves pods to turn fully red on the plant, tapers irrigation so they dry down, and then dries the harvest to about 10% moisture. Dry chilli is graded and priced on colour and pungency; green chilli is sold fresh and perishable.
Why does colour matter so much for dry chilli?
Much of India's dry chilli goes into the oleoresin, spice-powder and export trade, where extractable colour (measured in ASTA units) is a graded, paid-for quality — which is why a mild but intensely red variety like Byadgi commands a premium over a hotter but duller pod. Clean, even drying protects that colour; drying on damp ground or re-wetting dulls it and downgrades the lot.
What causes chilli fruit to rot with dark, sunken spots?
That is anthracnose (fruit rot and die-back), caused by Colletotrichum fungus in warm, humid weather, especially where overhead irrigation wets the pods. Spray a recommended fungicide at first appearance and repeat through a humid spell, remove rotted pods, use clean treated seed, and switch to drip so the fruit stays dry.
How much irrigation does chilli need?
Moderate, even soil moisture through the season, with the flowering-and-fruit-set stage the most sensitive — both drought and waterlogging there drop flowers and young fruit. Drip on ridges is ideal because it keeps the root zone out of the waterlogged state chilli cannot tolerate. For a dry-chilli crop, taper irrigation as the last red pods mature so they dry cleanly on the plant.
Which chilli variety should I grow?
Match the variety to your market, not just to yield: Byadgi types for high colour value (oleoresin and export), Guntur Sannam (LCA-334) for mainstream hot dry chilli, Teja for high pungency, Pusa Jwala for a seed-saveable open-pollinated green-and-dry variety, and private hybrids for high green-chilli yield. Check each against your local thrips and wilt pressure.
What yield can I realistically expect from chilli?
15–25 quintals per hectare of dry chilli for a well-managed irrigated crop, or 80–120 q/ha of fresh green chilli where the whole crop is sold green. High-colour Byadgi-type varieties yield less by weight but sell at a premium, so their per-hectare return can still be strong.
Why is resistance to insecticides a problem in chilli?
Thrips in the major chilli belts have been exposed to the same insecticide groups repeatedly for years and have built serious resistance, so a product that once worked can now fail. The only durable answer is to rotate between different chemical groups, lean on the nursery net and sticky traps, and avoid blanket early spraying that also kills the natural predators.
How should I dry and store red chilli?
Dry the red pods down to about 10% moisture on a clean floor, platform or tarpaulin — kept off bare, dew-damp ground — turning them for even drying and protecting them from rain and re-wetting. Store the dried chilli cool and dry in clean bags, graded by colour and pungency. Uneven drying or re-wetting causes mould and a dull, blotchy colour that downgrades the whole lot.
Can I save seed from my chilli crop?
Only from an open-pollinated variety such as Pusa Jwala, and only if it was kept isolated from other chilli varieties during flowering. Seed saved from a hybrid does not breed true and gives a poor, uneven crop the next season — buy fresh hybrid seed each time.
Can I grow chilli after tomato or brinjal?
It is best not to. Chilli, tomato, brinjal and potato are all solanaceous crops that share bacterial wilt and root-knot nematode, which build up in the soil and hit the following crop. Rotate to a non-host such as a cereal or legume for at least two seasons on any field with a wilt or nematode history.
Is chilli eligible for crop insurance and PM-KISAN?
Chilli is covered under PMFBY (Pradhan Mantri Fasal Bima Yojana) in states and districts where it is notified — as a commercial/horticultural crop the farmer's premium is capped at 5% of the sum insured — and chilli-growing farm households are eligible for PM-KISAN like any other. Enrolment is seasonal, so check your district's notified crop list and cut-off dates.
Still have questions?
The FAQs above cover the common ones. For anything specific to your field and soil, your nearest Krishi Vigyan Kendra is the authoritative answer.
