Skip to content
Technical Kisanखेती, तकनीक के साथ
ModerateUpdated 19 July 2026

Garlic

Allium sativum

Two details decide a garlic crop: planting graded, healthy cloves rather than whatever the bulb splits into, and stopping irrigation two to three weeks before harvest so the bulbs fill, cure and store. Garlic keeps far longer than onion when cured right — and rots just as fast when it is not.

A close-up pile of fresh garlic bulbs with their roots still attached
Crop type
Spice (bulb)
Season
Rabi (main); some early/kharif types
Suitable states
8 major states
Growing duration
150–180 days
Water requirement
Low–moderate (stop 2–3 weeks before harvest)
Temperature
12–24°C (cool for growth)
Soil type
Well-drained sandy loam to loam
Difficulty level
Moderate
Expected yield
80–120 q/ha
Storage
5–7 months if well cured

Overview

Garlic (Allium sativum) is grown across roughly 0.5 million hectares in India, with Madhya Pradesh alone accounting for well over half the national output, followed by Rajasthan and Gujarat. It is a rabi crop for most of the country, planted after the monsoon into cooling weather and harvested in late winter and spring.

Unlike almost every field crop, garlic is planted from cloves, not seed — each clove separated from the bulb becomes one plant, and clove size and health carry directly into bulb size, which is why grading and selecting planting material matters more here than for a seed crop. Like onion, it is grown as much for storage as for immediate sale: cured properly, garlic keeps for five to seven months and can be held for a thinner, higher-priced market.

The crop turns on two things done right — planting good cloves at the right depth and spacing, and stopping irrigation two to three weeks before harvest so the bulbs fill and cure rather than staying soft and rotting in store. This page follows the crop in the order you will actually meet it — land, planting material, planting, nutrition, water, protection, harvest, sale.

Crop timeline, sowing to harvest

A quick visual map of the season — jump to any section below for the detail behind each stage.

  1. Day 0

    Planting (cloves)

    Bulbs broken into individual cloves just before planting and set 5–7 cm deep, pointed end up, at 15 × 10 cm — not sown as seed.

  2. Day 8–15

    Sprouting

    Each healthy clove sends up a shoot; a shrivelled or diseased clove either misses or comes up weak, which is why clove grading at planting matters.

  3. Day 30–90

    Vegetative growth

    Leaf growth in the cool part of the season is what feeds bulb size later — garlic competes poorly with weeds through this slow-establishing window.

  4. Day 90–120

    Bulb initiation

    Lengthening days and the season's cool spell together trigger the single clove to split into a multi-clove bulb; nitrogen is deliberately cut off around here.

  5. Day 120–150

    Bulb development

    Consistent moisture through clove swelling sets final bulb size; both drought stress and waterlogging here give small or split bulbs.

  6. Day 150–165

    Irrigation stopped

    A deliberate, complete stop 2–3 weeks before harvest — the signature step that lets bulbs fill, firm up and cure, and the one most often skipped.

  7. Day 150–180

    Harvest

    When the lower leaves yellow and dry and the tops begin to bend over, for a properly matured rabi crop.

Suitable states

States where this crop is grown at scale, highlighted below. Your local Krishi Vigyan Kendra is still the final word for your specific block.

  • Jammu and Kashmir
  • Himachal Pradesh
  • Punjab
  • Uttarakhand
  • Haryana
  • Delhi
  • Uttar Pradesh
  • Rajasthan
  • Bihar
  • Jharkhand
  • West Bengal
  • Sikkim
  • Assam
  • Arunachal Pradesh
  • Meghalaya
  • Nagaland
  • Manipur
  • Mizoram
  • Tripura
  • Gujarat
  • Madhya Pradesh
  • Chhattisgarh
  • Maharashtra
  • Odisha
  • Goa
  • Telangana
  • Andhra Pradesh
  • Karnataka
  • Kerala
  • Tamil Nadu
  • Puducherry
  • Ladakh
  • Chandigarh

Grown here

Climate requirements

Garlic is both cold- and day-length-responsive: it needs the cool early-season spell to bulb properly, so a rabi crop planted too late runs its bulbing stage into warm weather and forms small, loosely filled bulbs no matter how well it is otherwise managed.

  • Ideal temperature

    12–24°C suits the crop best; garlic needs a cool spell during early growth for the clove to split into a proper multi-clove bulb, then mild warmth and lengthening days to finish bulbing — which is exactly why it is a rabi crop across most of India

  • Rainfall

    Grown almost entirely under irrigation; unseasonal rain late in the season, especially close to harvest, is a major risk since wet bulbs cure poorly and rot in storage

  • Humidity

    Low to moderate is best; high humidity through bulb development and at harvest sharply raises purple blotch and storage-rot risk

  • Sunlight

    Full sun, with the lengthening days of late rabi helping trigger and complete bulbing — planting too late shortens the cool growing window the crop needs before bulbing begins

Soil requirements

A raised bed or ridge is worth the extra effort on any field without excellent natural drainage; garlic's bulb sits at or just below the surface, which makes it more exposed to waterlogging and rot than a deep-rooted crop. A soil test matters most here for sulphur, which garlic — like onion — is unusually responsive to.

  • Suitable soil

    Well-drained sandy loam to loam rich in organic matter; garlic cannot stand heavy, poorly drained clay, which restricts the shallow-sitting bulb and encourages basal and white rot

  • pH range

    6.0–7.0

  • Drainage

    Very good — even short waterlogging rots the developing bulb and the roots beneath it, and wet soil at any stage feeds the soil-borne rots garlic is prone to

  • Organic matter

    Medium to high, from well-rotted compost rather than fresh manure — fresh, undecomposed manure close to planting raises basal-rot risk and pushes leafy growth over bulb development

Land preparation

Same four steps whichever region you are in — only the timing shifts with the sowing window.

  1. 1

    Field cleaning

    Remove the previous crop's residue and weeds so the field starts clean, and rotate away from onion or garlic on fields with a history of basal or white rot.

  2. 2

    Ploughing and harrowing

    Two to three ploughings followed by harrowing break the soil to a fine, well-pulverised tilth — garlic's shallow roots and surface-sitting bulb both need loose, clod-free soil to develop properly.

  3. 3

    Raised bed or ridge formation

    Forming raised beds or ridges rather than a flat seedbed protects the crop from waterlogging and makes the light, frequent irrigation garlic needs easier to manage precisely.

  4. 4

    Compost incorporation

    Working 20–25 tonnes/ha of well-rotted compost into the final ploughing — not fresh manure, which raises rot risk this close to planting — builds the organic matter garlic responds well to.

Seed information

How the main varieties compare, so you can pick by duration, yield, disease pressure or what you are growing for.

VarietyDurationYieldDisease resistanceBest stateSuitable for

Yamuna Safed (G-1)

The most widely grown white garlic across the plains, developed by ICAR-DOGR — dependable, good-keeping, with compact silvery-white bulbs.

150–160 days130–150 q/haNo specific bred-in resistance — standard exposure to purple blotch and thripsMadhya Pradesh, Gujarat, Uttar PradeshMain-season rabi, storage

Yamuna Safed-3 (G-282)

A bold, large-cloved white variety preferred for the export and premium market, where big, uniform cloves fetch a higher price.

140–150 days175–200 q/haNo specific bred-in resistanceMadhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, GujaratExport / bold-clove premium market

Agrifound White (G-41)

A creamy-white, compact-bulbed variety valued for its keeping quality in storage, another ICAR-DOGR release.

150–160 days120–140 q/haNo specific bred-in resistanceMadhya Pradesh, MaharashtraStorage-bred keeping quality

Agrifound Parvati (G-313)

A bold, very large-bulbed type originally selected for the hills, grown where a longer, cooler season allows the bulb to size up fully.

160–180 days150–175 q/haNo specific bred-in resistanceHimachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand (hills)Long, cool-season hill cultivation

Bhima Omkar

An early-maturing variety that fits a shorter window and lets growers reach an earlier, often better market than the main-season crop.

120–135 days100–120 q/haNo specific bred-in resistanceMaharashtra, Madhya PradeshEarly harvest / short season

Bhima Purple

A purple-skinned, early type suited to earlier planting in western India, where its short duration and colour find a specific market.

110–120 days100–120 q/haNo specific bred-in resistanceMaharashtraEarly planting, purple-clove market
Seed rate
500–600 kg/ha of cloves — the highest planting-material weight of any crop on this site, since each of the roughly 300,000–400,000 plants per hectare is grown from a whole clove rather than a light seed.
Certified seed
Use healthy, medium-to-bold cloves from disease-free bulbs, and separate them from the bulb only just before planting — cloves broken too early dry out and sprout unevenly. Big cloves give bigger bulbs, so grading out the small inner cloves for planting material genuinely pays.
Spacing
15 cm row-to-row, 10 cm clove-to-clove, planted 5–7 cm deep with the pointed (growing) end facing up
Seed treatment
Treat cloves before planting with a fungicide such as carbendazim (and Trichoderma where basal or white rot is a known problem) to protect against the soil-borne rots that spread through infected planting material.

Sowing guide

Because garlic is planted from cloves and not seed, the quality of the planting material is set before the crop even goes in the ground: healthy, graded, medium-to-bold cloves from disease-free bulbs give a far more even, higher-yielding stand than whatever a bulb happens to split into.

Best time
October–November for the main rabi crop across most of the plains; planting on time matters because garlic needs the cool early-season spell to bulb properly — planted too late, bulbing runs into warm weather and bulbs stay small
Row spacing
15 cm
Plant spacing
10 cm
Sowing depth
5–7 cm, with the pointed end up — cloves planted upside down or too deep emerge slowly and unevenly
Method
Cloves separated from the bulb and dibbled or dropped into furrows by hand at the correct spacing and depth, then covered — garlic is planted directly from cloves, never raised in a nursery like onion

Fertilizer schedule

A split dose beats one large dose applied at sowing — nitrogen especially is lost to the air and to leaching if it all goes in on day one.

  1. 1

    Basal dose

    At planting

    Full phosphorus and potash plus about a third of the nitrogen — a common recommendation is 100:50:50 kg/ha N:P₂O₅:K₂O — worked into the bed before planting.

  2. 2

    First top dressing

    30 days after planting

    About a third of the nitrogen, applied with irrigation during active vegetative growth.

  3. 3

    Second top dressing

    45–60 days after planting, before bulb initiation

    The remaining nitrogen — the last nitrogen dose of the season. Nitrogen applied after bulb initiation delays maturity and hurts storage life, so it is deliberately cut off here.

  4. 4

    Sulphur application

    At basal dose, ~20–25 kg/ha S, on deficient soils

    Garlic, like onion, is a sulphur-responsive crop — sulphur measurably improves both bulb pungency (the allicin that gives garlic its value) and size on fields with a known deficiency.

Irrigation schedule

  1. 1. Establishment

    At planting and first 2–3 weeks

    A light irrigation right after planting settles the cloves, followed by light, frequent watering to establish the stand.

  2. 2. Vegetative growth

    30–90 days after planting

    Regular irrigation every 8–12 days supports the leaf growth that feeds bulb size later.

  3. 3. Bulb development

    90–140 days after planting

    Consistent moisture through clove swelling sets final bulb size; both drought stress and waterlogging here give small or split bulbs.

Critical stages

  • Bulb development (90–140 days) — sets final bulb size
  • The final 2–3 weeks before harvest, when irrigation is deliberately stopped

Water-saving tips

  • Stop irrigation 2–3 weeks before harvest without exception — this is the single most important step for bulb filling and storage, since bulbs lifted from wet soil cure poorly and rot fast
  • Drip irrigation cuts water use against flood irrigation and reduces the leaf wetness that favours purple blotch
  • Mulching between rows conserves moisture and suppresses the weed flush garlic competes poorly against in its slow early weeks

Weed management

Organic control

  • Garlic is a poor weed competitor early on, so two to three hand weedings between 30 and 75 days after planting are usually needed regardless of herbicide use
  • Mulching between rows both conserves moisture and smothers weeds
  • A stale seedbed before planting knocks down the first weed flush cheaply

Chemical control

  • Pre-emergence: pendimethalin within 2–3 days of planting controls the early weed flush during the crop's slow-establishing weeks
  • Post-emergence: oxyfluorfen where the pre-emergence pass was missed, applied carefully since garlic foliage is sensitive

Nutrient deficiency identification

What a shortage of each nutrient actually looks like on the plant, so you can tell a deficiency apart from a disease before you spray the wrong thing.

Diseases to watch for

Symptoms, likely cause and what actually treats it — not just a spray name.

Pests to watch for

What to look for before the damage is visible, and organic options before you reach for a chemical.

Common mistakes to avoid

The mistakes that cost growers the most, ranked by how often they show up in the field — not in the order you might expect.

  1. 1

    Planting small, inner or shrivelled cloves as seed

    Why it hurts

    Clove size carries directly into bulb size — planting the small, culled cloves gives a weak, uneven stand and undersized bulbs, forfeiting yield before the crop even starts.

  2. 2

    Planting cloves upside down or too deep

    Why it hurts

    Cloves set with the pointed end down, or buried too deep, emerge slowly and unevenly and lose the early vigour that feeds bulb size.

  3. 3

    Continuing irrigation right up to harvest instead of stopping 2–3 weeks before

    Why it hurts

    Bulbs lifted from wet soil stay soft, cure poorly and rot fast in storage — undoing a whole season of otherwise good management, and the single most common garlic mistake.

  4. 4

    Planting too late in the season

    Why it hurts

    Garlic needs the cool early-season spell to bulb properly; a late-planted crop runs its bulbing stage into warm weather and forms small, loosely filled bulbs no matter what else is done.

  5. 5

    Applying nitrogen after bulb initiation

    Why it hurts

    Late nitrogen delays maturity, keeps the neck thick and green, and shortens storage life — which is why the last dose is deliberately cut off before bulbing begins.

  6. 6

    Using fresh manure instead of well-rotted compost close to planting

    Why it hurts

    Raises basal- and white-rot risk and pushes excess leafy growth at the expense of bulb development.

  7. 7

    Saving mite- or rot-infested bulbs for planting material

    Why it hurts

    Both the eriophyid mite and the soil-borne rots travel in the cloves — replanting infested material carries the problem straight into next season's crop and its storage.

  8. 8

    Skipping hand-weeding in the first 75 days

    Why it hurts

    Garlic is a poor weed competitor in its slow early weeks, and ground lost to weeds here shows up directly as smaller bulbs later.

  9. 9

    Skipping field curing after lifting

    Why it hurts

    Uncured bulbs go into storage with an unsealed neck and moist skin and rot within weeks instead of keeping for months.

  10. 10

    Storing in sealed sacks or an unventilated room

    Why it hurts

    Trapped moisture accelerates rot and sprouting regardless of how well the crop was cured — airflow, not just shade, is what keeps cured garlic sound in storage.

Harvesting

When the lower leaves have yellowed and dried and the tops begin to bend over — usually 150–180 days after planting for a main-season rabi crop — rather than waiting for the whole plant to dry down, which risks the bulbs splitting and the skin cracking in the field.

Signs it is ready

  • Lower leaves turn yellow and dry from the tips
  • Plant tops soften at the neck and begin to bend over
  • Bulbs are firm and well-filled with the cloves clearly formed and the outer skin papery

Tools

  • Manual lifting by hand or with a light digging tool, since bruised or cut bulbs cure and store far worse than undamaged ones
  • Field curing in windrows for a few days after lifting, tops left on to shade the bulbs while the outer skin dries
  • Topping and further curing under shade before bagging or storage

Expected yield

80–120 q/ha of cured bulbs under normal irrigated management; a bold-cloved variety with timely planting and good thrips control reaches the upper end of that range and beyond.

Post-harvest & storage

  • Storage

    Cure lifted bulbs in the field or under shade for 2–3 weeks until the neck, outer skin and roots are fully dry, then store in a well-ventilated structure rather than a sealed room — airflow around the bulbs, not just shade, is what actually prevents storage rot and sprouting.

  • Packaging

    Loosely woven jute or mesh bags, or traditional plaited braids, that allow airflow; sealed plastic sacks trap moisture and accelerate rot.

  • Transportation

    Handle gently to avoid bruising, and never transport wet or under-cured bulbs — they heat, sweat and rot in transit and can spoil a sound lot around them.

  • Shelf life

    5–7 months for a properly cured crop in ventilated storage — noticeably longer than onion — provided the bulbs went in dry and mite-free; storage losses climb steeply once moisture or the bloat mite gets into a lot.

Market prices

Today's mandi price near you, pulled live from the government's own Agmarknet data.

Live daily mandi prices from the government Agmarknet dataset.

Fetching today’s prices…

Synced from data.gov.in (Agmarknet). Rates are ₹ per quintal.

Weather

Current conditions and a 5-day outlook for your selected location, with one line of stage-aware advice.

Pick your state for current conditions and a 5-day outlook.

Fetching weather…

Live data from Open-Meteo

Profit calculator

Your own cost sheet, expected yield and selling price — not ours.

Where the money goes

Share of the total cost per acre, using the calculator’s own default cost sheet below — adjust the numbers there to match your field and this picture will no longer apply to you exactly, but the ranking rarely changes.

  • Seed34% (₹24,000)
  • Labour23% (₹16,000)
  • Land rent14% (₹10,000)
  • Fertiliser10% (₹7,000)
  • Irrigation6% (₹4,000)
  • Pesticide & weedicide5% (₹3,500)
  • Machinery4% (₹3,000)
  • Interest4% (₹3,000)

Official downloads

Government and ICAR documents only — everything below is hosted on an official server.

Frequently asked questions

When should I plant garlic?

October–November for the main rabi crop across most of the plains. Planting on time matters because garlic needs the cool early-season spell to bulb properly — planted too late, the bulbing stage runs into warm weather and the bulbs stay small no matter how well the crop is otherwise managed.

How much planting material (cloves) do I need per acre?

Roughly 200–240 kg of cloves per acre (500–600 kg/ha) — the highest planting-material weight of any crop here, because each plant is grown from a whole clove rather than a light seed. Use healthy, medium-to-bold cloves from disease-free bulbs.

Why is garlic planted from cloves and not seed?

Garlic rarely sets viable true seed under Indian conditions, so it is propagated vegetatively — each clove separated from the bulb grows into a new plant. This is why clove size and health matter so much: they carry directly into the size and health of the bulb you harvest.

Does clove size really affect yield?

Yes, strongly. Bigger cloves have more stored energy and produce bigger bulbs, so grading out the small inner cloves and planting the medium-to-bold ones genuinely raises yield. Separate cloves from the bulb only just before planting, since cloves broken too early dry out and sprout unevenly.

Why should I stop irrigation before harvesting garlic?

Stopping irrigation 2–3 weeks before harvest lets the bulbs fill, firm up and begin curing in the ground. Bulbs lifted from wet soil stay soft, cure poorly and rot fast in storage — so this single step, often skipped, decides much of how well the crop keeps. It is the signature practice of a good garlic grower.

How much irrigation does garlic need overall?

Light, regular irrigation every 8–12 days through vegetative growth and bulb development, then a complete stop 2–3 weeks before harvest. Garlic needs steady moisture through bulb swelling but resents waterlogging at any stage, which feeds the soil-borne rots it is prone to.

What fertilizer dose should I use, and why does nitrogen stop early?

A common recommendation is 100:50:50 kg/ha of N:P:K, with about a third of the nitrogen at planting and the rest split across two top dressings, plus 20–25 kg/ha of sulphur on deficient soils. The last nitrogen dose is given before bulb initiation — nitrogen applied later delays maturity, keeps the neck thick, and shortens storage life.

Why is sulphur important for garlic?

Garlic, like onion, is unusually sulphur-responsive. Sulphur improves both bulb size and pungency — it drives the allicin content that gives garlic its flavour, aroma and market value — so 20–25 kg/ha of sulphur on a deficient soil pays off in both yield and quality.

Does garlic have an MSP, and why does its price swing so much?

No — garlic has no Minimum Support Price; it is a spice, not a mandated crop. Its price is among the most volatile of any farm produce, swinging hard between glut and shortage year to year, and shifting with carryover stock, storage decisions and export demand. The live mandi price on this page is the most useful real-time signal for deciding when to sell from storage.

Why are my garlic leaves twisted and streaked?

Twisted, curled and streaked leaves often point to the eriophyid (bloat) mite, a microscopic pest carried in the cloves that also causes a dry, spongy rot in stored bulbs. Because it travels in planting material, the main defence is planting only clean, mite-free cloves and discarding visibly infested bulbs rather than saving them for seed — field sprays reach the sheltered mites poorly.

Why do my garlic leaves have purple-brown blotches?

Most likely purple blotch, the most common foliar disease of garlic and onion in India, favoured by warm, humid weather and heavy dew. Spray mancozeb or a suitable combination fungicide at first appearance and keep foliage dry by avoiding overhead irrigation — see the Diseases section for the full programme.

What yield can I realistically expect from garlic?

80–120 quintals per hectare of cured bulbs under normal irrigated management. A bold-cloved variety such as Yamuna Safed-3 (G-282), planted on time with good thrips control, reaches the upper end of that range and beyond.

How do I cure and store garlic so it keeps?

Cure lifted bulbs in the field or under shade for 2–3 weeks until the neck, skin and roots are fully dry, then store in a well-ventilated structure — not a sealed room or plastic sacks, which trap moisture. Cured properly and stored with airflow, garlic keeps for five to seven months, noticeably longer than onion.

How is garlic different from onion to grow?

Both are Alliums grown much the same way — rabi, cured and stored, sulphur-responsive, thrips-prone — but garlic is planted directly from cloves rather than raised as a nursery and transplanted, it takes longer (150–180 days), and it stores longer when cured well. Garlic also carries its own signature pest, the clove-borne bloat mite.

When should I harvest garlic, and what are the signs?

When the lower leaves have yellowed and dried and the tops begin to bend over, usually 150–180 days after planting. Don't wait for the whole plant to dry down — that risks the bulbs splitting and the outer skin cracking in the field, which hurts both appearance and storage.

Can I insure my garlic crop, and does it qualify for PM-KISAN?

Garlic is covered under PMFBY (Pradhan Mantri Fasal Bima Yojana) where it is in your state's notified crop list, and as a commercial/horticultural crop the farmer's premium is capped at 5% of the sum insured. PM-KISAN is not crop-specific — any eligible landholding farmer family qualifies. Check your state's seasonal notification and cut-off dates.

Which garlic variety should I grow?

For the main rabi crop on the plains, Yamuna Safed (G-1) and Agrifound White (G-41) are dependable, good-keeping whites; for a bold-cloved export or premium market, Yamuna Safed-3 (G-282) sizes up largest. Bhima Omkar and Bhima Purple suit earlier planting and a shorter season. Match the variety to your region and market, and hedge any single choice against local advice.

Still have questions?

The FAQs above cover the common ones. For anything specific to your field and soil, your nearest Krishi Vigyan Kendra is the authoritative answer.